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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.